Hanoi: Cocktails of the city

Paul Chai
The Sydney Morning Herald

Laidback: A busy night in Hanoi's old town. Photo: Alamy

Hanoi's best bars serve a winning mix of art, music and cocktails.

Charming retro boltholes, creative cocktail joints and great bar food - Hanoi has plenty to do when the sun slinks away behind the city's ever-present haze.

The northern Vietnamese city was dealt a blow last year when the much-touted new art-and-bar space Zone 9 - a south-east Asian take on London's Shoreditch - was closed after a fatal fire. But when one bar closes, several more open or relocate. New laneway bars are popping up in Tay Ho, Zone 9 favourites are moving to new digs, and the city's bia hois continue to slake the thirst of the city.




Dangling glass bottles at Bar Betta. Photo: Vegan Beats/Google

Here is a selection of the hippest, highest and handsomest places to quench your thirst.
Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/hanoi-cocktails-of-the-city-20140618-3acn3.html#ixzz35K7hasU6

FOR COCKTAILS

Bar Betta (34c Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh) is a rabbit warren of rooms stuffed with old gramophones, tin toys, walls plastered with old vinyl - and Edith Piaf warbling in the background. It's lovingly retro, like many of the cocktails on offer. Or you can choose from the specials.

Summit Lounge at Sofitel Plaza.

A Litchi Rose comes on like a floral boxing glove, the wine selection is one of the best in town, and by day drinkers have their laptops for companions. But this Hanoi hipster haunt is more play than work in the evening. Climb the stone staircase, through the forest of dangling glass bottles, to discover the rooftop party.

Tucked away in a West Lake laneway, Do Luych (19B Ngo 12, Dang Thai Mai Street, Tay Ho) is full of mismatched furniture - the CD cabinet is a shower cubicle - and has a classic cocktail list (the whisky sour is a standout).

Drinkers can choose to watch the bartenders work in the front bar in among the coloured lights, fake trees and a baby grand piano, or chill in the tiny back garden.

It's a relaxed, arty space with jazz on the stereo, where locals can buy a bottle of spirits to keep behind the bar and anyone can grab a banh mi when hungry.

Best described as warehouse-chic, Tadioto (24B Tong Dan Street; tadioto.com) is a bit of a blank canvas, an alternative art space that evolves to host readings, gallery openings and art events, all with the backing of a well-stocked bar and competent bar staff. It recently moved near the Opera House after its Zone 9 outlet was closed down.

FOR FOOD

Bare bricks and ottomans are packed three storeys high at 88 Lounge (88 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) on the shores of Tay Ho. Behind a screen of live bamboo, waiters in crisp white shirts bustle around the large wooden tables and lush furnishings amid prison-grey concrete walls.

88 is a sophisticated affair with a big wine list and a small-but-spot-on selection of food. Delve into a board of paper-thin cold cuts including salumi, sopressa and Serrano ham, with a side of olives, cherry tomatoes and cornichons; a cheese plate is piled generously high, and open sandwiches are served with fries and salad.

It's an expat crowd ,but it's new, bold and lots of fun.

Don's - A Chef's Bistro (16 Ngo 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho; facebook.com/donsviet) is a popular rooftop bar, atop the fine diner of the same name.

This kitsch bar gives you a view of Tay Ho with neon lighting, up-lit glass tables and swivel cane chairs - as well as a live band. The crowd is friendly and fun, and Don's margarita is as lethal as Hanoi's traffic. Downstairs, the Canadian expat, chef and owner, Donald Berger, offers a quieter (and altogether bluer) space for those who would rather partake of dinner than drinks; his take on local rice paper rolls give the street vendors a run for their money.

FOR VIEWS

The Hanoi haze almost looks appealing 20 floors up with a pineapple ginger margarita in hand at the Summit Lounge (Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh). Rattan chairs, brightly coloured pillows and glowing lamps make a lounge of the balcony area, while inside boasts big couches.

And it's not the tequila talking - those really are giant swans gliding along Tay Ho (West Lake) as avid swan-boaters paddle around Chua Tran Quoc pagoda, said to be Vietnam's oldest. The tapas menu trots the globe, but go local with cha ca skewers, turmeric-covered fish pieces, or chargrilled lemongrass and chilli chicken.

Tucked away from the traffic, the Sunset Bar (Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake, 1ANghi Tam, Tay Ho; ihg.com) sits at the heart of the hotel's overwater rooms offering a commanding low-level view across the lake to Ba Dinh.

Tiki torches light your way along a bridge to a man-made island of rattan chairs, day beds and red lanterns. There's a barbecue in the corner, but most of the well-heeled crowd just grabs a seat and faces the waning light; then you get dive-bombing bats for company.

The signature drink is a Hanoi Breeze, a punch mix of lemongrass, fresh mint, dark and white rum, and a dash of soda.

FOR AUTHENTICITY

Taken en masse, bia hois (any street, anywhere) are the most popular places for a drink in the city. Plastic chairs so low they feel like practice for the squat toilets and similar kiddie-sized tables are about the only adornment to these no-frills beer bars but that's OK when your lager is ice-cold, fresh daily and cheap. It's a simple brew, low in alcohol and quite likely to run out - and it comes with some equally simple and fresh local food (though quality varies).

The writer travelled at his own expense.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

Malaysia Airlines has a fare to Hanoi for about $835 low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax. Fly to Kuala Lumpur (about 8hr) and then to Hanoi (3hr 25min). See malaysiaairlines.com. Australians need a tourist visa for a stay of up 30 days.

EATING THERE

Street eats are the way to go, so grab a banh mi at streetside stalls andbia hois. For a sit-down meal in the old quarter, visit the venerable Cha Ca La Vong, 14 Pho Cha Ca, dinner from $40. The house special is fish, grilled at your table.

STAYING THERE

Just outside the city centre but close to the Tay Ho bar scene is InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, 1a Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, with rooms starting from $240. Do some tai chi by the outdoor pool, dine at Cafe du lac or indulge at the breakfast buffet. See ihg.com.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/hanoi-cocktails-of-the-city-20140618-3acn3.html#ixzz35K7YagQq

Five bars for expats in Hanoi's Old Quarter

VietNamNet Bridge – Having a cocktail and talking with a few new friends is how to enjoy the nightlife of many expats and foreign tourists in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

Unlike the conceptions of many Vietnamese customers who usually go to a bar to release stress, dance and drink, foreign visitors go to bars to not dance but only just to listen to music, enjoy a few glasses of beer and talk. Below are several bars managed by expats and favored by expats in the Old Quarter.

1. Rockstore, 61 Ma May

Rockstore can be regarded as a typical western-styled bar in the Old Quarter, ran by Olivier Waryn, a Swiss man.

Opened in September 2013 and thanks to its soothing décor, open space with rock style, the new bar has quickly become a destination for many foreign tourists and expats in Hanoi.

The bar is a two-story yellow house in France architecture style. On the 1st floor is a bar serving alcoholic beverages such as wine, cocktails, mocktails, beer ... and lounges for small groups.

The second floor is designed for big groups and some billiard tables. The highlight of the bar is bent lampposts.

If other bars only open from afternoon to evening, Rockstore opens all day. But just when the night comes, visitors will understand how Rockstore is.

The bar has performances of DJs or rock bands in all evenings. In addition to drinks, the bar offers some Vietnamese cuisines like bun cha, spring rolls...

2. Fat Cat Bar, 25 Ta Hien

Fat Cat Bar is also managed by Waryn Olivier and a French friend. Compared with Rockstore, Fat Cat is smaller but its décor is very special.

The combination of a lively bar and a gently lounge creates a comfortable atmosphere at Fat Cat Bar.

Most of the customers are foreigners. They can gather around the bar inside or sit outside the door to sip a glass of beer and talk for hours. If they like sitting, they can climb up to the loft.

Fat Cat Bar regularly organizes music parties with different themes. The favored drinks here are beer and cocktails. If you want to call a special drink, it would be a Fatcat cocktail.

3. Finnegan's Irish

The name Finnegan's Irish apparently derives from the famous novel “Finnegans Wake” by the Irish writer James Joyce. Located on the 2nd floor of No. 32 Luong Ngoc Quyen stret, Finnegan's Irish is in European classic style with wooden and leather furniture in brown - black colors.

It is not too wide but Finnegan's Irish takes advantage of maximum light and space to create different spaces. If you go there alone, you can sit at the bar, if in a group, you can select a suitable table, otherwise you can call a beer and take the glass to the balcony to enjoy watching the streets.

In addition to alcohol drinks, Finnegan's Irish also serves tea, coffee and snacks. In particular, the bar regularly organizes events associated with international football tournaments.

4. Funky. B

Funky B (formerly called Funky Buddha) is a bar located at No. 2 Ta Hien, known for house, trance and techno music. With unique music style, this place is a very popular address of foreign tourists and the foreign community in Vietnam.

Compared to many bars in the Old Quarter, Funky B is fairly large with two bars of two different styles. The bar near the door is somewhat "ordinary" while the inside bar is more impressive with a bird-cage wine rack. If you do not like the bustling atmosphere with DJ music, you can sit at the bar near the door to drink and chat with friends.

5. Spy Bar

Spy Bar at No.12A Nguyen Huu Huan Street is similar to Finnegan's Irish in design but visitors can still find here unique features. The bar is small, with several long benches for groups and high stools at the bar. You can go upstairs if you want a more private space.

Spy Bar has live music and mini gameshows in Friday evening. Drinks here are quite cheap, VND20,000-40,000 ($1-2)/beer bottle, VND15,000-20,000/a cup of coffee and tea.

Pha Le

(http://english.vietnamnet.vn/fms/travel/94346/five-bars-for-expats-in-hanoi-s-old-quarter.html)

Do and Don't in Hanoi #1

Today I have an idea: why don't I make a list that help you know something should and should not do if you come to my city - Hanoi. I'm aware that there's plenty of guide books already, but  advice from a resident like me could be more updated and helpful for you.These suggestion from what I want to do everyday: Where to eat, how to order, how to avoid some crisis or conflict... in a quite chaotic city like Hanoi.

The first thing is traffic. I think most travelers are scared of traffic in Hanoi. So it comes naturally to the  #1 in my Do & Don't list.

DO:

- Cross the street where has traffic light and crosswalk. Sometime it's not useful, because some naughty vehicles still go under red light! However, you have not any better choice.

- Cross the street where has bridge for pedestrian. There few crosswalk bridges in Hanoi.

- If you see any Vietnamese prepares to cross the street, catch up and follow them immediately. Everyone in Hanoi is congenitally genius in crossing the street!

- If you don't see any sign that the vehicles are about to slow down to allow you go across, you simply wait for another chance. If the traffic is too crowded, it means they have to go slowly and it's become the chance for you!

- Go further to find the way to cross the street.

- Get a taxi. The price for a very short distance is cheap. Of course you must watch if driver cheat you to get much more money than real cost.

- Catch a motorcycle driver ("xe ôm"). If the distance under 2km, the price is around 20,000VND (~1USD). Almost drivers are friendly and enthusiasm.

DON'T:

- Stop in the middle of the street suddenly. I know you will be very, very frightened by traffic, but normally the traffic will slow down and give priority for pedestrians to cross the street. You feel the traffic could hit you at any time, but they will avoid you if you walk fast and confidently.

- Move without steady speed. You shouldn't run suddenly. Drivers may lose their speed control.

- Feel so scary or angry. Vietnamese are usually friendly with foreigners.

- Hesitate to ask Vietnamese people. Not so many Vietnamese speak well English but they know body language enough to show you the way. Except some women carry the burden in Old Quarter or around Hoan Kiem Lake. They are cheaters! (They will give you to try carry the burden, take photos and ask you money without your agreeing).

- Forget a map. If you have a map, you can show your wanted place and ask people which way to get there. And you will be sure it's hard to lose your way unless you go to the place out of the map :-).

Have a good walk!