Thứ Tư, 18 tháng 6, 2014

The Wandering Motorbike (Preface)




Title: Xe máy tiếu ngạo (The Wandering Motorbike)
Author: Nguyễn Trương Quý
Translator: Jacob O. Gold
Center for Southeast Asian Studies
University of Michigan Ann Arbor, MI 48104

Translator’s Preface

            Nguyễn Trương Quý was born in Hanoi in 1977. A graduate of the Hanoi University of Architecture, Trương Quý’s successes as an essayist and, most recently, an author of short fiction, seem to derive from his application of an architect’s sensibility to the pages of his prose. Each essay seems a guided tour through spaces of nostalgic memory, social description, wide-ranging cultural references, and bitingly humorous invention. A true architect, his decorative motifs, as much as his supporting thematic columns, stand in service to a balanced whole. And just as an architect designs buildings that will join the living fabric of the cities in which they are built, Trương Quý’s works are inimtately bound up in the life of the rapidly-evolving city that inspires them: Hanoi.
            Trương Quý began to make a name for himself by publishing essays in various online and print publications, and his first essay collection, Tự nhiên như người Hà Nội (“As Natural as a Hanoian”— a half-joking reference to Hanoi’s sense of its own culutral refinements), was released in 2004. This was followed by Ăn phở rất khó thấy ngon (“It’s hard to find a good bowl of ph”—that is, Vietnam’s famous beef noodle soup) in 2008, and Hà Nội là Hà Nội (Hanoi is Hanoi) in 2010. Xe máy tiếu ngạo was published in 2012. This translation project is the first time that any of Trương Quý works have appeared in English, or any other language outside of Vietnamese. Trương Quý has also translated several English-language works into Vietnamese, most notably, Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire in 2011. The author’s first collection of short fiction is slated for publication sometime in 2013.
            The concept behind The Wandering Motorbike is simple yet effective: use the motorbike as a guiding theme through which to explore the changes that have taken place in Hanoi, and in the lives of its residents, over the past thirty years. It must be mentioned here that the motorbike is perhaps the most iconic feature of Vietnamese modernity. There are over 2 million registered motorbikes in Hanoi, and more than twice that number in Ho Chi Minh City (also known as Saigon). Before the economic and, to some extent, social liberalizations of the Dổi Mới (Renewal) Policy were launched in 1986 (paralleling Deng Xiaoping’s similarly sweeping reforms in China), Hanoi was a city of bicycles, streetcars, and oxcarts on the road, dispensaries and ration books in place of grocery stores, and little if any access to consumer goods. Trương Quý belongs to the generation that came of age just at the cusp of Vietnam’s massive socioeconomic transformation. He is old enough to remember what came before, and young enough to be excited about what the future holds for Hanoi (he seems particularly fascinated with the projected completion of Hanoi’s first subway line several years from now). Trương Quý’s intermediate historical perspective means that he can more impartially weigh and compare the past and the present: on the one hand, savoring the simple pleasures that stood out among yesteryear’s material deprivation, while on the other, jabbing at the frivolity and conspicious consumption that seem endemic to today’s new wealthy classes. At the same time, this is not a collection of charicatured social types. Trương Quý is a master at conveying the compact, yet acute, daily dramas of children and parents, husbands and wives, boyfriend and girlfriends, office workers and their bosses. He also takes advantage of the inflows of global media now available in Vietnam. In addition to quoting from Vietnamese novels, poetry, and cinema, Trương Quý muses upon Easy Rider, Roman Holiday, The Wild Ones, and, interestingly, The Motorcycle Diaries, whose protagonist, Che Guevara—as Trương Quý reminds us— has become as much a fixture of Western t-shirts as the pages of Marxist hagiography. And of course, the super-protagonist of Trương Quý’s work is the city of Hanoi itself: its famous boulevards and twisting mazelike alleyways, its famous cafes and scenic lakes, its Old Quarter and its nouveau riche proto-suburbs.
            Bringing this book into English has a second layer of significance for me, the translator. I came to Hanoi for the first time in 2007, working for a year at the official English-language newspaper, The Việt Nam News, through a fellowship organized by the university from which I had graduated the previous year. At that time, my only knowledge of Vietnamese came from the Pimsleur language-learning discs that I had listened to before heading overseas. After my fellowship posting ended, I did not return to Hanoi for four years, although I did work as a journalist elsewhere in Southeast Asia. This past summer (after having completed the Advanced Vietnamese course sequence here at Michigan), I finally had the chance to return to Hanoi, expressly in order to initiate this translation project. The introduction between the author and myself was made by Michigan’s stellar Vietnamese instructor, Nguyễn Thủy-Anh, who is also my advisor on the independent course dimension of the project. My first sojourn in Hanoi had been absolutely wonderful, and for those four years I had honestly been pining for a city that I fell in love with (the fragrance of milk-flowers, described in the sample chapter, was a particular sensory touchpoint for these emotions), yet never knew if I would see again. It was doubly thrilling, then, both to return to Hanoi and be able to speak Vietnamese with everyone there. I was not just returning to the city, I was rediscovering it on a deeper level. With every chapter that I translate here in Ann Arbor, that process of rediscovery advances that much further. My hope is to transition this project from a purely academic and personal challenge into actual matter for publication in Vietnam.

Notes on the Translation Itself

            The essay form employed by Trương Quý is known as the tản văn, or “meandering writing.” The essay form in general has a long history within the greater tradition of Vietnamese letters, and its sub-genres are varied and eclectic. Even before mass print culture exploded with the adoption of Quốc ngữ (Romanized) script during the French colonial period, Vietnamese authors were composing travelogues, religious works, poetic anthologies, and so on. Even today, a newsstand in a major Vietnamese city will carry dozens of daily broasheets, literary journals, and the newer Western-inflected glossy magazines. The tản văn form in particular has its roots in the journal culture that arose early in the last century, when Vietnamese intellectuals were grappling with how to define their identity, and their sense of nationhood, under the paradoxical effects of French domination, which wounded national pride and yet helped forge, and only in part through opposition, a modernized, unified concept of “Vietnam”.
            True to its “meandering” name, a tản văn essay stems from a long-held Vietnamese aesthetic sensbility in which the units of expression, be they paragraphs or phrases, are valued as much for their individual poetry as for their service to the continuous whole. To the active reader, these become like movements in an orchestral work—it soon becomes easy for the mind to establish its own connections. This form is also perfect for the narrative “vehicle” of the motorbike, which, as Trương Quý often mentioned, allows the rider to zoom freely, and with unprecedented speed, from one part of the city to another. What is especially fun about translating, and hopefully, reading Trương Quý’s tản văn is that, in their playful stream-of-consciousness unfoldings, they also reveal a great deal about the author himself. In this book, one is transported to Hanoi, and has enjoys the opportunity of becoming well-acquainted with one of its sharpest citizen-observers, Trương Quý.
            There are several features of the Vietnamese language that present special difficulties for the English-language translator. The toughest of these to handle, but also the most interesting for an American student of Vietnamese, are the instaces of what linguists call “reduplication.” The basic forms of these simply involve following a word with an appended, similar-sounding attachment, to emphasize meaning or for euphonious effect. For example, if mạnh means “strong,” then mạnh mẽ means “very strong.” However, there is a more unique form of reduplication in Vietnamese that could be called “abstract onomatopoeia”. This is where word-pairs don’t “mean” anything in themselves, but can describe objects, actions, sounds, conditions, or feelings, to name a few, all with a multi-shaded range of meanings. These are a class of terms that a fluent speaker understands implicitly, but requires a careful process of internalization for the foreign language learner. Some of the many examples in Trương Quý’s work: Lănh nhăng means that something is vague, unspecified, but also subject to manipulation or avoidance. Chễm chệ can refer to a swaggering, even teetering motion, but also with shaded meanings of haughtiness, or the rocking of a royal palanquin. Uể oải connotes reluctance or boredom, absent-mindedly doing something. Chênh vênh means that something is slightly protruding, or creating an edge of some kind. Here are some more examples from Wikipedia that have not occured so far in Trương Quý’s work:

       loảng xoảng — sound of glass breaking to pieces or metallic objects falling to the ground
       hớt hơ hớt hải- (also hớt ha hớt hải) — hard gasps -> in extreme hurry, in panic, panic-stricken
       lục đục — the sound of hard, blunt (and likely wooden) objects hitting against each other -> disagreements and conflicts inside a group or an organization
       
        As a translator, one realizes that the Vietnamese language has created incredibly compact, richly descriptive terms that English, for all of its extensive vocabulary, cannot easily convey, especially because each of these terms calls up an entire bundle of physical, kinetic, affective and associative properties. The best that one can do is to find the mot juste based upon the context in which the reduplicative phrase is used, or provide an explanatory footnote.
      As a translator, I have made the decision to use footnotes extensively in my work. In this world of hypertext websites and multi-tasking media players, I felt that my readers could handle, and would ultimately appreciate, a bit of non-linearity. This is especially so because I am at the service of the author, Trương Quý, and it is my foremost responsibility to deliver his thoughts, and as best as possible, his style, to an English-language readership. There are many references to Vietnamese artists and writers, cultural features, locations in Hanoi, as well as Vietnamese idioms, the understandings of which are all crucial to the fullest appreciation of these chapters. Also, I couldn’t help but want to share some of the author’s wordplay and his neologisms with my readers.
      Another interesting feature of written Vietnamese what I would call its range of grammatical personalities. Between the 1st and 11th centuries BCE, Vietnam fell directly under Chinese imperial rule. Over the subsequent centuries, Chinese culture— especially the written culture of statecraft, religion, and the literary arts—continued to exert a profound influence on the culture of Vietnam. Under French colonization (as well as Vietnam’s subsequent participation in the Communist bloc of nations), the patterns of written Vietnamese took on a more “westernized” grammatical structure. What this means from a practical standpoint is that written Vietnamese is like an accordion. Depending on the effects that one is aiming for, the language can contract into the ideographic style of literary Chinese, or expand into what is almost a calque of Western grammatical parts. Classic Chinese also provided Vietnam with a high-literary, or more formal, register, especially in terms of vocabulary, known as Hán-Việt  (Sino-Vietnamese). Sino-Vietnamese and “common” Vietnamese can, often do, exist side by side in the same sentence. On average, Vietnamese sentences remain more compact than English ones, requiring fewer “in-between” connector words in order to deftly express equivalent ideas in English. This also presents something of a challenge for the translator in terms of finding the proper balance and tone of the author’s phrasing.

      Finally, there are the cultural barriers between Trương Quý and myself. I am not from Vietnam, or a Vietnamese-American, but I have spent time in Vietnam, and have continued to assiduously study Vietnamese culture and history here in the US, especially in the context of my work here at Michigan. Thanks to my interactions with the author, the advising of Vietnamese lecturer Nguyễn Thủy-Anh, and my own experiences, readings, media consumption, and inner contemplation, I am try my best to create a genuinely Vietnamese space in my mind through which to engage this author’s work. I hope you enjoy my efforts so far!

Thứ Bảy, 8 tháng 2, 2014

Five bars for expats in Hanoi's Old Quarter

VietNamNet Bridge – Having a cocktail and talking with a few new friends is how to enjoy the nightlife of many expats and foreign tourists in the Hanoi Old Quarter.
Unlike the conceptions of many Vietnamese customers who usually go to a bar to release stress, dance and drink, foreign visitors go to bars to not dance but only just to listen to music, enjoy a few glasses of beer and talk. Below are several bars managed by expats and favored by expats in the Old Quarter.
1. Rockstore, 61 Ma May
Rockstore can be regarded as a typical western-styled bar in the Old Quarter, ran by Olivier Waryn, a Swiss man.
Opened in September 2013 and thanks to its soothing décor, open space with rock style, the new bar has quickly become a destination for many foreign tourists and expats in Hanoi.
The bar is a two-story yellow house in France architecture style. On the 1st floor is a bar serving alcoholic beverages such as wine, cocktails, mocktails, beer ... and lounges for small groups.
The second floor is designed for big groups and some billiard tables. The highlight of the bar is bent lampposts.
If other bars only open from afternoon to evening, Rockstore opens all day. But just when the night comes, visitors will understand how Rockstore is.
The bar has performances of DJs or rock bands in all evenings. In addition to drinks, the bar offers some Vietnamese cuisines like bun cha, spring rolls...
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters 
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters

2. Fat Cat Bar, 25 Ta Hien
Fat Cat Bar is also managed by Waryn Olivier and a French friend. Compared with Rockstore, Fat Cat is smaller but its décor is very special.
The combination of a lively bar and a gently lounge creates a comfortable atmosphere at Fat Cat Bar.
Most of the customers are foreigners. They can gather around the bar inside or sit outside the door to sip a glass of beer and talk for hours. If they like sitting, they can climb up to the loft.
Fat Cat Bar regularly organizes music parties with different themes. The favored drinks here are beer and cocktails. If you want to call a special drink, it would be a Fatcat cocktail.
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters

3. Finnegan's Irish
The name Finnegan's Irish apparently derives from the famous novel “Finnegans Wake” by the Irish writer James Joyce. Located on the 2nd floor of No. 32 Luong Ngoc Quyen stret, Finnegan's Irish is in European classic style with wooden and leather furniture in brown - black colors.
It is not too wide but Finnegan's Irish takes advantage of maximum light and space to create different spaces. If you go there alone, you can sit at the bar, if in a group, you can select a suitable table, otherwise you can call a beer and take the glass to the balcony to enjoy watching the streets.
In addition to alcohol drinks, Finnegan's Irish also serves tea, coffee and snacks. In particular, the bar regularly organizes events associated with international football tournaments.
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters 
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters

4. Funky. B
Funky B (formerly called Funky Buddha) is a bar located at No. 2 Ta Hien, known for house, trance and techno music. With unique music style, this place is a very popular address of foreign tourists and the foreign community in Vietnam.
Compared to many bars in the Old Quarter, Funky B is fairly large with two bars of two different styles. The bar near the door is somewhat "ordinary" while the inside bar is more impressive with a bird-cage wine rack. If you do not like the bustling atmosphere with DJ music, you can sit at the bar near the door to drink and chat with friends.
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters 

5. Spy Bar
Spy Bar at No.12A Nguyen Huu Huan Street is similar to Finnegan's Irish in design but visitors can still find here unique features. The bar is small, with several long benches for groups and high stools at the bar. You can go upstairs if you want a more private space.
Spy Bar has live music and mini gameshows in Friday evening. Drinks here are quite cheap, VND20,000-40,000 ($1-2)/beer bottle, VND15,000-20,000/a cup of coffee and tea.
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
 hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters 
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters
hanoi bars, expats, old quarters 

Pha Le
(http://english.vietnamnet.vn/fms/travel/94346/five-bars-for-expats-in-hanoi-s-old-quarter.html)

Thứ Sáu, 20 tháng 7, 2012

Nora Ephron's last work

My friend came back home from U.S in her vacation and gave me a book of Nora Ephron. Its name is "I Remember Nothing". The book contains some articles and reflections she has published on newspapers and magazines. I think not many people Vietnam know who are her but I'm sure you know some charming movies like When Harry Met Sally... (1989), Sleepless In Seattle (1993), You've Got Mail (1998), and Julie & Julia (2009). She wrote screenplays and directed almost them. I like them a lot and even edited a screenplay book of When Harry Met Sally... in Vietnamese. It's very funny, attractive and witty.


Nora just died few weeks ago (26 June). It's really a bad news. She's a talent in rom-com movies which conquer viewers over the world. Her movies are kind of chick-flick but still make men want to see. In fact, her male characters are not boring. Do you like Jack Nicholson, Billy Crystal, Tom Hanks, and John Travolta, A-list movie stars? All of them played in her few movies. The list has Steve Martin, Kurt Russell, Will Ferrell...


The screenplay book I edited in Vietnamese



Some scenes in When Harry Met Sally... with Billy Crystal and Meg Ryan
There are few female stars played in Ephron's movies: Meryl Streep, Diane Keaton, Cher, Andie McDowell, and Meg Ryan, of course. We could say Meg Ryan used to be the muse of Ephron. Their big hits came when Meg play movies of Nora.

Ephron's movies seem quite soft, not serious and they contain all small things about emotional world of women, the way they seek love, discover men, etc... But they tell the stories in a charming and subtle way. Their message is a calling for love, the communication between lonely people in urban society. Ephron's movies are the treatment for curing and mending broken hearts. Of course, my expression seems quite cliché, but it's true.

***

Now I should say about her last work: the book. It was published in 2010. Its content comes from articles in The Huffington Post, The New Yorker, The New York Times and Vogue. I like "Journalism: A Love Story" and "My Life as an Heiress" the most. The former tells about her time in Newsweek and The New York Post around 1962 when she started her career as a journalist. She had to move quiet slowly from position of a mail girl ("my job couldn't have been more prosaic"), then clipper ("after a few months, I was promoted to the next stage of girldom at Newsweek: I became a clipper") - "Being a clipper entailed clipping newspapers from around the country." "Being a clipper was a horrible job, and to make matters worse, I was good at it. But I learned something: I became familiar with every major newspaper in Ameria." Starting with very ordinary jobs, but Nora let the readers learn that she always was an optimist. Her memory was very humorous and lively.


"Three months later, I was promoted again, this time to the highest rung: I became a researcher." It's a kind of fast checking job if there's any mistake in content of articles before publishing. It's not morasse (pre-printing) errors but the correctness of names, places and numbers. During the time of famous 114-days newspaper strike (Dec 1962), she accidentally catch the chance to work for The New York Post as a columnist. Then she worked for it for 5 years. This job perhaps brought her good material in writing. 

All what I could say, Nora Ephron is a valued author to read and study, besides her movies. Reading them, we understand why her books are "national bestsellers" of America. They have the interesting links with the movies, social trends and even history of the country she lived in. Her books are not too complicated but easy to read, even with a foreign like me. It's evidence of power of American entertainment industry.

Thứ Năm, 12 tháng 7, 2012

A Bitter Summer

Last night, I went to The Youth Theatre (Nhà hát Tuổi Trẻ) to see a play. Its name's "Mùa hạ cay đắng" (A Bitter Summer), written by Nguyễn Quang Lập, directed by Anh Tú and main role played by Kim Oanh.

This play was written over 20 years ago, maybe 1988 when the renovation has been carried out in Vietnam. It seemly became a remarkable play since there. But in the bleak condition of Hanoi stage nowadays, information about new revival of this play doesn't gain many attentions of audience. I know about it just a few hours before play when a friend of mine ask via Facebook that who want to go to see it then she give free tickets. Unfortunately, it seems nobody could go, even her. Someone comments on her status that the play is too old and kind of headache. I have never seen it, so I decided to go. When I go to take the tickets, I was so shocked when she give me 8 tickets!

The play said about one beautiful woman who ran away from an illegal affair around year of 1972 when the North Vietnam suffered the bombing attacks of U.S air force. She lived in a small village with her child (from the affair) and her adopted father. This situation was rather vague. In addition, the first scene was too long but not informative. It made audience feel bored.

But the most important thing here was the characteristic of Thùy Linh - the woman, Trần Hới - the man who was chasing her and the father. They yelled at each other about their sins, lies and betraying in the past. It's a kind of flashbacks but all of them expressed through saying. I dislike this method, it's so simple and boring, especially when the dialogue was not good. It repeated so many same ideas and sentences.


Kim Oanh as Thùy Linh and Quang Ánh as Trần Hới.

Back to the plot. In 1969, the woman felt in love with a soldier name Hoàng when his troop go by the village from the frontier back to Hanoi to repair the arms. He became the meaning of her life and she's waiting for him for years. The soldiers dropped 50 barrels of oil and ask people protect them till they come back. The villagers had to fight the bombing attacks and they lost 12 people for 3 years but no one came back to take the oil away or even communicate them.

Accidentally, Hoàng came back from the frontier. He said that the troop let him turn back to watch the oil barrels. While he and Thùy Linh were guarding the barrels together, he shot a U.S airplane down. But he didn't want to let everyone know it's his victory. When they came back home, he convinced his girlfriend to take it. Unfortunately, Trần Hới who found Thùy Linh already listen to this talk. He discover that Hoang is a deserted soldier. It explained why Hoang did not want to be responsible for the victory.


The 'hot' scene in play

When Trần Hới forced Thùy Linh and the daughter come back to live together with him whether he would tell the truth, she left. I understand the message here is nobody's perfect and full of mistakes. Thùy Linh was a kind of wild woman who used to love Trần Hới because he's "too handsome" and then loved Hoàng, but she's disappointed with her men. Every seemed cheated, maybe, but the simplicity of plot did not persuade me in that message.

However, the talents of main actress - Kim Oanh - solve this play a lot. She could express many emotions, she is also beautiful and her voice is clear. Some verses that she sang are quite charming, it helped audience feel relaxed.

I heard that this play is made just for attending the Professional Stage Festival next month to earn some gold medals, esp. Kim Oanh. Now she's a Superb Artist (a noble title by state authority) at the age of 37 or 38. With the regular in Vietnam, maybe she will become a People's Artist (higher than Superb Artist title), but when? In Vietnam, people call this kind of plays and movies as "Kịch/phim cúng cụ" (Offerings to Ancestors, it means the works made for propaganda, ceremony, memorial...) but nobody buy tickets to see them. So what could I say when I go to theater with 8 tickets for only 2 person? And a lot of empty seats there said all.

Thứ Bảy, 19 tháng 5, 2012

Do and Don't in Hanoi #1

Today I have an idea: why don't I make a list that help you know something should and should not do if you come to my city - Hanoi. I'm aware that there's plenty of guide books already, but  advice from a resident like me could be more updated and helpful for you.These suggestion from what I want to do everyday: Where to eat, how to order, how to avoid some crisis or conflict... in a quite chaotic city like Hanoi.

The first thing is traffic. I think most travelers are scared of traffic in Hanoi. So it comes naturally to the  #1 in my Do & Don't list.

DO:
- Cross the street where has traffic light and crosswalk. Sometime it's not useful, because some naughty vehicles still go under red light! However, you have not any better choice.
- Cross the street where has bridge for pedestrian. There few crosswalk bridges in Hanoi.
- If you see any Vietnamese prepares to cross the street, catch up and follow them immediately. Everyone in Hanoi is congenitally genius in crossing the street!
- If you don't see any sign that the vehicles are about to slow down to allow you go across, you simply wait for another chance. If the traffic is too crowded, it means they have to go slowly and it's become the chance for you!
- Go further to find the way to cross the street.
- Get a taxi. The price for a very short distance is cheap. Of course you must watch if driver cheat you to get much more money than real cost.
- Catch a motorcycle driver ("xe ôm"). If the distance under 2km, the price is around 20,000VND (~1USD). Almost drivers are friendly and enthusiasm.

DON'T:
- Stop in the middle of the street suddenly. I know you will be very, very frightened by traffic, but normally the traffic will slow down and give priority for pedestrians to cross the street. You feel the traffic could hit you at any time, but they will avoid you if you walk fast and confidently.
- Move without steady speed. You shouldn't run suddenly. Drivers may lose their speed control.
- Feel so scary or angry. Vietnamese are usually friendly with foreigners.
- Hesitate to ask Vietnamese people. Not so many Vietnamese speak well English but they know body language enough to show you the way. Except some women carry the burden in Old Quarter or around Hoan Kiem Lake. They are cheaters! (They will give you to try carry the burden, take photos and ask you money without your agreeing).
- Forget a map. If you have a map, you can show your wanted place and ask people which way to get there. And you will be sure it's hard to lose your way unless you go to the place out of the map :-).

Have a good walk!

Thứ Sáu, 18 tháng 5, 2012

Trinh Cong Son & Bob Dylan: 2 difference planets

Here's a new book about Trinh Cong Son who is a famous songwriter of Vietnam, but in a kind of comparison with Bob Dylan who is the man-you-know-who. The book includes original essay name Is Trinh Cong Son's Bob Dylan of Vietnam? by Prof. John C. Schafer (retired, Univ. Humboldt, California, USA), now translated into Vietnamese by his wife - Mrs. Cao Thi Nhu Quynh.

Mr. Schafer taught Comparative Literature in Humboldt, and he has been in Hue, Vietnam where he taught English in 1960s. He has written a number of thesis, essays and articles about Vietnamese culture and Trinh Cong Son. But this book is the first one in Vietnam.

From a very  popular statement: "Trinh Cong Son is Bob Dylan of Vietnam" since late 1960s, and when Bob Dylan have a tour around the world "The Never Ending Tour" which came to Vietnam in only night last year with a message from organizer that "to tribute to Trinh Cong Son," Schafer have willing to discovery whether 2 composers are likely each other.



According to Schafer, we have so many myths but not true. Firstly, that statement is not from Joan Baez, one of muses of Dylan when he's young, after she came back from Vietnam where she share the under bombing condition of North Vietnamese in Hanoi in December 1972. She never went to South Vietnam, where Trinh Cong Son lived at that time.

Secondly, Trinh and Dylan write some songs call for peace, but when Trinh has a lot of anti-war songs in whole Vietnam war time, Dylan write a few protest songs in his debuting time. And Dylan didn't like joining any movement which Joan Baez often encouraged him.

Lastly and most important, Trinh wrote under light inspiration of Buddhism, while Dylan is a Evangelicalism and even composed many religious songs. Two this differences religious let them go to two difference directions. While Trinh Cong Son has a soft philosophy full of forgiveness and love on the themes of broken heart loves, Bob Dylan many times criticized women who get in affairs with him though he betrayed them.

The book also includes the introduction of Prof. Cao Huy Thuan (Univ. of Picardie, Paris, France) and close with a short epilogue which he read in a Trinh Cong Son-remembering concert of singer Khanh Ly who is the legendary voice of Trinh's songs. 

Thứ Ba, 8 tháng 5, 2012

Shopping at the street markets


Nowadays, shopping at street markets still plays an important role in lifestyle of Vietnamese people. The way which they do shopping at street markets expresses how they live in their normal life. In fact, street markets are the face of popular trading in Vietnam.

Vietnamese people find that shopping at street markets has many advantages. Many people go shopping by motorbike, so it is very easy for them to stop at any stall or kiosk without parking their motorbikes. On the other hand, many street markets are next to residential areas, and people feel very convenient to go shopping on foot within a very short distance. They can choose their suitable meat, vegetables or something like that, negotiate the cost and then decide to buy or not. The time people manage their shopping there is very short, because salesmen and customers do not need a receipt for very daily things such as food. Furthermore, the food which is sold in street markets is fresher and cheaper than in supermarkets. If you are a tourist, you will see a colorful picture of Vietnamese life and will learn about its culture when you go through a street market. Shopping at street markets is very flexible, so in a dynamic and developing economy of Vietnam, it is the best choice.


However, shopping at street markets also has some disadvantages. Some street markets invade the pavement and even the traffic lanes. In rush hours, many people come home from work, they go shopping at street markets and contribute to traffic jams. The street markets are dirtier than supermarkets and the salesmen rarely care about keeping their stalls clean. Especially, the food is not always inspected with regard to hygiene. There a lot of pickpockets and cheaters in street markets but the victims cannot complain to anyone. The goods which are sold at street markets don’t have very high quality. Many fake goods are sold there but salesmen never admit that. Worse, some salesmen have very bad behaviors when customers do not want to buy after checking or complaining. Although there are many bad points, Vietnamese people still bear them.


In conclusion, I’d like to say that shopping at street markets in Vietnam has a long tradition in a rural country. People still go shopping like they did many centuries ago. If you learn about Vietnamese style of shopping, especially shopping at street markets, you will know about Vietnamese lifestyle really, really well.